"Easy-Technical" Located next
to Everest. Climbing Ama Dablam could qualify
you for our "Basic Climb" of Everest.
Climb Asia's Most Famous Easy Semi-Technical
Rock, Ice, and Snow Peak.
An expedition to Ama Dablam is more than
just a climb. It’s a journey into
the heart of the Himalayas. Located in the
Khumbu valley of Nepal, only 12 km from
the summit of Mount Everest, Ama Dablam
demands the
attention of every passer-by. Soaring ridgelines
and super-steep faces guard the summit from
all but the experienced climber. From the
summit you are surrounded by a vista of
peaks like no other, five of the highest
six peaks in the world are clearly visible.
The first ascent (via the SW ridge) of
Ama Dablam was not made until the mid 1950’s
by a strong NZ/USA team. The north ridge
fell to a talented French team as late as
1979. In recent years many parties have
successfully climbed the mountain, with
nearly all ascents via the original SW ridge
route. Our ascent will be made via the conventional
SW ridge route, a technical route that requires
3500 m of fixed ropes and three camps above
base camp. The climb usually completed in
less than four weeks; however we do build
in an extra week in case of exceptionally
bad weather. The climbing on the route involves
pure rock climbing on exquisite granite
followed by mixed snow and rock climbing.
The last section to the summit involves
ice climbing followed by a long steep snow
slope: often ropes are employed all the
way to the summit. The reasons for this
are three-fold: safety, speed and success.
This
trip requires a high level of fitness and
a few additional items that the normal trekking
kit will not contain. Any trip to altitude
can be potentially dangerous so every medical
and technical precaution is taken to ensure
your safety and success. Comprehensive medical
equipment, such as oxygen, Gammov bag and
specialised drugs will be on hand. Ropes
and other technical safety equipment are
also provided: we do not skimp on kit. Safety
of the entire group (including kitchen and
climbing staff and porters) comes first. Due to the technical nature of the route,
ropes will be fixed for most of the climb
above camp one. Although we can brush-up
your skills at base camp, a good working
knowledge of abseiling and use of mechanical
ascenders (jumars) is mandatory: prior experience
is required. This might involve a couple
of weekend sessions at your local cliff
or bridge combined with some other general
mountain knowledge. Objective danger on
the SW Ridge route is minimal, ice cliffs
do not threaten it, the snow slopes are
generally stable (with minimal avalanche
risk), the rock is of good quality and the
mountain is below the reach of jet stream
winds. The route
is extremely exposed and mistakes with rope
work can be unforgiving. We have a strong
local climbing sherpa team to help us on
the mountain. They greatly assist in your
success by helping with load carrying and
the fixing of ropes. The whole team will
be involved in the fixing of rope and the
smooth running of the expedition but their
primary concerns are client safety, service
and success. Our guide will be climbing
with you at all times. Our guide will ensure
your safety and make decisions regarding
safety and weather, they also assist in
carrying group gear between camps. You are
then left to carry only your personal gear
between camps.
A
typical team would consist of four clients,
two helper Sherpas, two climbing Sherpas,
a camp one cook, base camp cook, one kitchen
boy and a message runner. We run our trips
on very low ratios. We use a lot of sherpa
power and we have exceptional food in base
camp and on the mountain. Our tents are
all high quality expedition style tents
and roomy enough to enable you to enjoy
a comfortable night’s sleep.
If you want the best chance of success –
this is it! We provide the highest quality
commercial operation available on Ama Dablam.
Outline Itinerary
Day 01: Arrive Kathmandu (1300m), Nepal.
Day 02: Explore Kathmandu, finalize arrangements.
Day 03: Fly to Lukla (2900m), walk to Phakding
(2550m), sleep in tea house
or camp.....2-3 hrs.
Day 04: Walk to Namche Bazaar (3440m), sleep
in tea house or camp....4-7
hrs.
Day 05: Rest in Namche, sleep in tea house
or camp.
Day 06: Walk to Pangboche (3860m), sleep
in tea house or camp........ 4- 7
hrs
Day 07: Walk to Base Camp (4650 metres)...….
3-5 hrs
Day 08: Rest and Training day in Basecamp,
review climbing techniques, medical,
etcetera.
Day 09: Walk to Advanced Basecamp (5350
metres), return and sleep in basecamp.
Day 10: Walk to Advanced Basecamp, sleep
in advanced basecamp.
Day 11: Explore route to camp 1 (5700 metres),
return and sleep in basecamp.
Day 12: Rest in Basecamp.
Day 13: Walk to Advanced Basecamp, sleep
in advanced basecamp.
Day 14: Scramble to Camp 1, sleep in camp
1.
Day 15: Explore route to camp 2 (5750 metres),
return and sleep in basecamp.
Day 16: Relax in basecamp.
Day 17: Walk to Advanced Basecamp, scramble
to Camp 1, sleep in camp
1.
Day 18: Climb to Camp 2, sleep in camp 2.
Day 19: Explore route to Camp 3 (6230 metres).
For those who are feeling
well, attempt the summit. Return and sleep
in basecamp.
Day 20: Relax in basecamp.
Day 21: Walk to Advanced Basecamp, sleep
in advanced basecamp.
Day 22: Climb to Camp 2, sleep in camp 2.
Day 23: Climb to camp 3, sleep in camp 3.
Day 24: Summit Attempt.
Day 25: Summit Attempt.
Day 26: Return to basecamp.
Day 27: Pack up basecamp, walk down to Pangboche,
sleep in tea house or
camp.
Day 28: Walk down to Namche, sleep in tea
house or camp.
Day 29: Walk down to Lukla, sleep in tea
house or camp.
Day 30: Return flight from Lukla to Kathmandu.
Day 31: Extra day in Kathmandu for shopping,
saying good bye to new friends.
Day 32: Fly back to your home country. Thanks
for joining our Ama Dablam
expedition with Nature Trail Trekking and
Expeditions!
Note: If you are planning different
itineary or like to combine other peak or
trekking to Kalapattar/EBC with Ama Dablam,
or any different, we will be happy to re-design
different itinerary for you, please write us
e-mails with your available time frame
and interest.
No previous
experiences, no worries! Just come up with
good spirit and positive mental attitude,
we train you for the expeditions, and take
you the there, your dream land!
Wish to talk with our previous clients who
climb with us? E-mail
us, we provide you details!
Looking for
different mountain than above? Click one
of the below other NMA list mountains!