Climbing
and Expeditions :- Island Peak (Imja Tse)
6189m
This
is the most popular climbing / trekking peak
in Nepal. From Dingboche the mountain is clearly
seen as a pyramid of ice and rock. The mountain
itself is the extension of the South Ridge
of Lhotse Shar separated by a small col. The
ridge rising to the south from this point
leads to the summit of Island Peak. Imja Tse
not only provides an enjoyable climb but also
provides some of the most spectacular scenery
of Himalayas in the Khumbu region. Seen from
the summit the giant mountains, Nuptse (7,879m),
Lhotse (8,501m), Lhotse Middle Peak (8,410m)
and Lhotse Shar (8,383m) make a semi circle
in the north. The views of Makalu (8475m)
in the east, Baruntse and Ama Dablam in the
south add more charm for climbing Island Peak.
The Climb : South
- East Flank:
The
usual site for base camp is at Pareshaya Gyab
at 5,087 m. This is not an attractive place
and one has to be careful for avalanches.
From base camp the trail goes round the base
of Imja Tse between the moraine and the mountain
before turning north-east and climbing steep
grassy slopes and small rocky steps. Following
an open gully leads to the high camp at 5,280
m.
From the high camp scramble across the open
gully and take the right hand ridge. After
the ridge straight op and cross to the glacier.
Find your way upwards, to the left side between
the crevasses and seracs. You will see a gully
with on your left side rocks and on the right
side more open space. This gully leads to
the summit ridge. Be aware of falling stones
and ice.
The
ridge itself is a classic and undulates towards
the main summit which is reached by a final
snow pitch.
North
Ridge:
Follow the Imja Glacier and the moraines by
snowy slopes op to the col at 5,700 m. Put
your camp on the col. From the col follow
the ridge. This ridge is difficult under snow
conditions. Beware of the cornices. The ridge
steepens for the final top. This route is
a little more difficult than the normal route.
Outline Itinerary
Day 01 : Arriving in Katmandu brifing
at hotel (1330m)
Day 02 : Kathmandu, sightseeing Kathmandu
Valley
Day 03 : KTM/Lukla Trek to phakding 5 hrs
(2652m)
Day 04 : Trek to Nmmche Bazar 6to 7-hrs
(3440m)
Day 05 : Acclimatization day visit National
Park museum, is possible to do
site trip to Everest view hotel it takes
5 hrs going up and coming
down Everest view Hotel elevation is (4050m.)
Day 06 : Trek to Thame 6 hrs (3800m) Visit
Thame Monastery in the evening. Day 07: Trek to Khumjung 6 hrs (3790m)
Monastery tour in the Evening where
you can see Yeti Scalp.
Day 08 : Trek to Dole (4220m.) 6 hrs.
Day 09 : Trek to Mchermo (4410.) 5 hrs.
Day 10 : Trek to Gokyo (4750m.) 6 hrs.
Beyond Machhermo the trail climbs a ridge
for an excellent view both down the valley
to kantega and up towards Cho Oyou.
It
is a steep climb up the moraine, switch
backing along side the stream to the first
small lake at 4650m, where a familjy of
Brahminy ducks has resided for many years.The
trail now becomes almost level as it follows
the valley past a second lake, known as
Longponga, at 4690m and finally up a boulder-strewn
path to Gokyo.
Is a collection of stone houses and walled
pastures on the shores of a large lake.
The setting is reminiscent of an abandoned
summer resort.
Day 11 : Climbing Gokyo ri back to gokyo
over night at Gokyo Morning climb
Gokyo Ri (5360) for views of Everest, Lhotse,
Cho Oyu and many other mountains (6 kms
round trip / 4 hours). Afternoon optional
hike up along the Ngumpa Glacier to the
5th lake or further to Scoundrel's viewpoint.
Day 12 : Trek to Drangnag (4790m). 3 hrs.
Day 13 : early in the morning start trek
to over chola to Jongla. Cho La pass
(5330m) 7 hrs.
Day 14 : Trek to Labuche (4910m. 3 hrs
Day 15 : Hiking early in the morning to
kala pathar( 5545m.) Back to Gorakshep
6to 8-hrs
Day 16 : visit Everest Base camp early in
the morning back to Lobuche 7
to 8-hrs (4930m)
Day 17 : Trek to Chhuking 4730m.
Day 18 : Trek to Island Peak Base camp 5087m.
No previous
experiences, no worries! Just come up with
good spirit and positive mental attitude,
we train you for the expeditions, and take
you the there, your dream land!
Wish to talk with our previous clients who
climb with us? E-mail
us, we provide you details!
Looking for
different mountain than above? Click one
of the below other NMA list mountains!
This
is the most popular climbing / trekking peak
in Nepal. From Dingboche the mountain is clearly
seen as a pyramid of ice and rock. The mountain
itself is the extension of the South Ridge
of Lhotse Shar separated by a small col. The
ridge rising to the south from this point
leads to the summit of Island Peak. Imja Tse
not only provides an enjoyable climb but also
provides some of the most spectacular scenery
of Himalayas in the Khumbu region. Seen from
the summit the giant mountains, Nuptse (7,879m),
Lhotse (8,501m), Lhotse Middle Peak (8,410m)
and Lhotse Shar (8,383m) make a semi circle
in the north. The views of Makalu (8475m)
in the east, Baruntse and Ama Dablam in the
south add more charm for climbing Island Peak.
The
usual site for base camp is at Pareshaya Gyab
at 5,087 m. This is not an attractive place
and one has to be careful for avalanches. 
The
ridge itself is a classic and undulates towards
the main summit which is reached by a final
snow pitch.
It
is a steep climb up the moraine, switch
backing along side the stream to the first
small lake at 4650m, where a familjy of
Brahminy ducks has resided for many years.The
trail now becomes almost level as it follows
the valley past a second lake, known as
Longponga, at 4690m and finally up a boulder-strewn
path to Gokyo.
